What happens when your sebum is too dry – and how to clear your pores
- Norman Reffke
- Jul 17
- 4 min read
Updated: Jul 18
Many people automatically associate impure skin with oily T-zones and overactive sebaceous glands. But what if the opposite is the problem? If the sebum is too dry and clogs your pores? It sounds paradoxical—but it's scientifically proven. In this article, you'll learn how dry sebum develops, what its consequences are, and how you can help your skin restore its balance.
Table of contents
What is sebum and what function does it serve?
Why does sebum become too dry? The biochemical mechanisms
Symptoms: How solidified sebum appears on the skin
Treatment: Medical & natural approaches
Prevention: How to keep your sebum smooth
Supplements & Nutrition
Study situation
Conclusion with coaching integration
Sources
What is sebum and what function does it serve?
Sebum is a complex mixture of lipids, waxes, squalene, free fatty acids, and cell debris. It is produced in the skin's sebaceous glands and released to the surface via a fine duct. Its main functions:
Protection against moisture loss
Formation of an antimicrobial barrier
Supply of lipids to the upper skin layers
Supports the pH of the skin
The composition of healthy sebum typically looks like this:
Triglycerides: approx. 40–50%
Wax esters: approx. 25–30%
Squalene: approx. 10–15%
Cholesterol esters & free fatty acids: residual
If this balance changes – e.g. due to diet, hormones or external influences – sebum can become too hard, too sticky or simply “blocking”.
Why does sebum become too dry? The biochemical mechanisms
Dry sebum isn't simply less sebum—it's a qualitatively altered sebum . The main causes:
1. Lipid deficiency and disturbed composition
Too little linoleic acid (Omega-6) leads to increased viscosity of the sebum.
Vitamin A deficiency disrupts the differentiation of sebaceous gland cells.
Reduced squalene content leads to more brittle sebum.
2. Cornification disorders (keratosis follicularis)
Dead skin cells are not shed properly.
The pore is “sealed” before the sebum can escape.
3. Hormonal influences
Testosterone deficiency → reduced sebum production
Estrogen dominance → altered lipid synthesis
4. Environmental influences & care errors
Cold and dry air reduce sebum secretion.
Alcohol-based or foaming cleansers destroy the lipid film.
Incorrect care can trigger a "rebound" effect.
Symptoms: How solidified sebum appears on the skin
Non-inflammatory comedones (whiteheads, closed blackheads)
Skin flaking despite a "greasy" appearance
Enlarged, clogged pores
Dull skin , dull complexion
Perioral dermatitis with impaired barrier function
These symptoms occur primarily in adults who actually have "dry skin" – and are often treated incorrectly.
Treatment: Medical & natural approaches
Medical:
Retinoids (e.g. tretinoin) → improve sebum quality
Salicylic acid → keratolytic, pore-opening
Evening primrose oil cream → provides linoleic acid topically
Naturally:
Jojoba oil → balances sebum structure, non-comedogenic
Chamomile hydrolate → anti-inflammatory and pH-regulating
Healing clay masks → bind calluses
Accompanying:
Do not use alcohol-based toners
Cleaning with pH-neutral, lipid-friendly products
Prevention: How to keep your sebum smooth
Pay attention to the Omega-3/Omega-6 balance
Vitamin A-rich diet (e.g. liver, carrots with fat)
Do not use aggressive cleaning products
Plan skin care with gentleness instead of control
Pro tip: Night cream with 2-3 drops of squalane can provide long-lasting support to the skin barrier.
Supplements & Nutrition
Based on studies and skin physiology:
Vitamin A : 800–1,500 µg retinol equivalents per day
Linoleic acid (e.g. via hemp or evening primrose oil): 2–3 g/day
Zinc : 10–15 mg/day – reduces oxidative stress in sebaceous glands
Vitamin D3 : 1,000–2,000 IU/day – regulates differentiation
These recommendations are intended as a supplement and do not replace dermatological advice.
Study situation
Zouboulis CC. "Sebaceous gland biology revisited: development, function, and diseases." Clin Dermatol . 2022.
Ottaviani M et al. "Sebum biochemical composition in acne prone skin." Exp Dermatol . 2020.
Thiboutot D. "Hormones and sebaceous gland activity." J Invest Dermatol . 2019.
Sattler G et al. "Clinical evidence of squalane in dermatology." J Cosmet Dermatol . 2021.
Conclusion with coaching integration
Dry sebum is not a moisture problem—it's a lipid and regulatory issue. Many skincare mistakes arise from misunderstandings: Those with "dry skin" shouldn't simply apply oil, but rather improve the biochemical quality of sebum.
Recommendations for everyday life:
Question your cleaning ritual: less is often more.
Supplement specifically with vitamin A, zinc, linoleic acid.
Choose skincare products that work with your skin – not against it.
Pay attention to hormonal triggers (e.g. stress, estrogen dominance).
💡 Coaching integration possible? Yes
Module suggestions:
Reset day for skin barrier
Sebum optimization plan with squalane & evening primrose oil
Omega check via nutrition tracker
Sources
1. Zouboulis CC. (2022)
Title: Sebaceous gland biology revisited: development, function, and diseases Source: Clinical Dermatology
Short description: Overview of anatomy, function and diseases of the sebaceous gland with a focus on sebum composition and regulators.
DOI: 10.1016/j.clindermatol.2022.04.003
2. Ottaviani M, Camera E, Mastrofrancesco A et al. (2020)
Title: Sebum biochemical composition in acne prone skin
Source: Experimental Dermatology, 29(8), 822–828. Abstract: Study on the biochemical composition of sebum in acneic skin – focus on lipid profiles, oxidation, and comedogenicity.
DOI: 10.1111/exd.14147
3. Thiboutot D. (2019)
Title: Hormones and sebaceous gland activity Source: Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 139(7), 1443–1445
Brief description: Relationship between testosterone, androgens, estrogen and sebum production.
DOI: 10.1016/j.jid.2019.01.018
4. Sattler G, Grunewald S. (2021)
Title: Clinical evidence of squalane in dermatology
Source: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 20(5), 1305–1311. Abstract: Overview of the dermatological effects of squalane – from barrier function to lipid regulation.
DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13745