What happens when your sebum is too dry – and how to clear your pores

Many people automatically associate impure skin with oily T-zones and overactive sebaceous glands. But what if the opposite is the problem? If the sebum is too dry and clogs your pores? It sounds paradoxical—but it's scientifically proven. In this article, you'll learn how dry sebum develops, what its consequences are, and how you can help your skin restore its balance.

Table of contents

• What is sebum and what function does it serve?

• Why does sebum become too dry? The biochemical mechanisms

• Symptoms: How solidified sebum appears on the skin

• Treatment: Medical & natural approaches

• Prevention: How to keep your sebum smooth

• Supplements & Nutrition

• Study situation

• Conclusion with coaching integration

• Sources

What is sebum and what function does it serve?

Sebum is a complex mixture of lipids, waxes, squalene, free fatty acids, and cell debris. It is produced in the skin's sebaceous glands and released to the surface via a fine duct. Its main functions:

• Protection against moisture loss

• Formation of an antimicrobial barrier

• Supply of lipids to the upper skin layers

• Supports the pH of the skin

The composition of healthy sebum typically looks like this:

• Triglycerides: approx. 40–50%

• Wax esters: approx. 25–30%

• Squalene: approx. 10–15%

• Cholesterol esters & free fatty acids: residual

If this balance changes – e.g. due to diet, hormones or external influences – sebum can become too hard, too sticky or simply “blocking”.

Why does sebum become too dry? The biochemical mechanisms

Dry sebum isn't simply less sebum—it's a qualitatively altered sebum . The main causes:

1. Lipid deficiency and disturbed composition

• Too little linoleic acid (Omega-6) leads to increased viscosity of the sebum.

• Vitamin A deficiency disrupts the differentiation of sebaceous gland cells.

• Reduced squalene content leads to more brittle sebum.

2. Cornification disorders (keratosis follicularis)

• Dead skin cells are not shed properly.

• The pore is “sealed” before the sebum can escape.

3. Hormonal influences

• Testosterone deficiency → reduced sebum production

• Estrogen dominance → altered lipid synthesis

4. Environmental influences & care errors

• Cold and dry air reduce sebum secretion.

• Alcohol-based or foaming cleansers destroy the lipid film.

• Incorrect care can trigger a "rebound" effect.

Symptoms: How solidified sebum appears on the skin

• Non-inflammatory comedones (whiteheads, closed blackheads)

• Skin flaking despite a "greasy" appearance

• Enlarged, clogged pores

• Dull skin , dull complexion

• Perioral dermatitis with impaired barrier function

These symptoms occur primarily in adults who actually have "dry skin" – and are often treated incorrectly.

Treatment: Medical & natural approaches

Medical:

• Retinoids (e.g. tretinoin) → improve sebum quality

• Salicylic acid → keratolytic, pore-opening

• Evening primrose oil cream → provides linoleic acid topically

Naturally:

• Jojoba oil → balances sebum structure, non-comedogenic

• Chamomile hydrolate → anti-inflammatory and pH-regulating

• Healing clay masks → bind calluses

Accompanying:

• Do not use alcohol-based toners

• Cleaning with pH-neutral, lipid-friendly products

Prevention: How to keep your sebum smooth

• Pay attention to the Omega-3/Omega-6 balance

• Vitamin A-rich diet (e.g. liver, carrots with fat)

• Do not use aggressive cleaning products

• Plan skin care with gentleness instead of control

Pro tip: Night cream with 2-3 drops of squalane can provide long-lasting support to the skin barrier.

Supplements & Nutrition

Based on studies and skin physiology:

• Vitamin A : 800–1,500 µg retinol equivalents per day

• Linoleic acid (e.g. via hemp or evening primrose oil): 2–3 g/day

• Zinc : 10–15 mg/day – reduces oxidative stress in sebaceous glands

• Vitamin D3 : 1,000–2,000 IU/day – regulates differentiation

These recommendations are intended as a supplement and do not replace dermatological advice.

Study situation

1. Zouboulis CC. "Sebaceous gland biology revisited: development, function, and diseases." Clin Dermatol . 2022.

2. Ottaviani M et al. "Sebum biochemical composition in acne prone skin." Exp Dermatol . 2020.

3. Thiboutot D. "Hormones and sebaceous gland activity." J Invest Dermatol . 2019.

4. Sattler G et al. "Clinical evidence of squalane in dermatology." J Cosmet Dermatol . 2021.

   
   

Conclusion with coaching integration

Dry sebum is not a moisture problem—it's a lipid and regulatory issue. Many skincare mistakes arise from misunderstandings: Those with "dry skin" shouldn't simply apply oil, but rather improve the biochemical quality of sebum.

Recommendations for everyday life:

• Question your cleaning ritual: less is often more.

• Supplement specifically with vitamin A, zinc, linoleic acid.

• Choose skincare products that work with your skin – not against it.

• Pay attention to hormonal triggers (e.g. stress, estrogen dominance).

💡 Coaching integration possible? Yes

Module suggestions:

• Reset day for skin barrier

• Sebum optimization plan with squalane & evening primrose oil

• Omega check via nutrition tracker

Sources

1. Zouboulis CC. (2022)

Title: Sebaceous gland biology revisited: development, function, and diseases Source: Clinical Dermatology

Short description: Overview of anatomy, function and diseases of the sebaceous gland with a focus on sebum composition and regulators.

DOI: 10.1016/j.clindermatol.2022.04.003

2. Ottaviani M, Camera E, Mastrofrancesco A et al. (2020)

Title: Sebum biochemical composition in acne prone skin

Source: Experimental Dermatology, 29(8), 822–828. Abstract: Study on the biochemical composition of sebum in acneic skin – focus on lipid profiles, oxidation, and comedogenicity.

DOI: 10.1111/exd.14147

3. Thiboutot D. (2019)

Title: Hormones and sebaceous gland activity Source: Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 139(7), 1443–1445

Brief description: Relationship between testosterone, androgens, estrogen and sebum production.

DOI: 10.1016/j.jid.2019.01.018

4. Sattler G, Grunewald S. (2021)

Title: Clinical evidence of squalane in dermatology

Source: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 20(5), 1305–1311. Abstract: Overview of the dermatological effects of squalane – from barrier function to lipid regulation.

DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13745